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Handcrafted Danish Leathergoods

First brand we pressent in this new category is this:

Morten in his workshop in Copenhagen

Leather braces
Also Made-to-Order

For Holding Up The Trousers can offer personalized leathergoods in roughly crafted hardwearing belts and suspenders, that will last a lifetime and only get more beautiful with wear. Get the right accessory that completes your outfit at For Holding Up The Trousers webpage.

To summarise:

See for yourself how Nick Johannessen writer at Well Dressed Dad describes his leather suspenders from Morten.

Below is a link to his review of the handmade suspenders, made with a special hook for his preference.

Read the review of For Holding Up The Trousers here

Foto: Boukje Kleinhout Photography, & Wilgart
Model: Silas Skram
Event: Jægersborggade Mixer 2019

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New old style – The one piece crown

Recently Wilgart has been looking into very old time classics of caps. One of the styles that came to mind was the very broad cloth caps, worn by men in the 1910s through the 1930s. Amongst the styles popular at the time was the newsboy cap, baker cap and golf caps. One shape in particular caught attention, is the beautifully crafted one piece crown caps, that seems a very popular style in the early days.

With inspiration from talented craftsman people like Monsavais in California and The Well Dressed Head in Australia, we are now also in Denmark challenging ourselves with the novel art of capmaking in these long forgotten styles.

“It seems beyond my understanding that headwear so beautifull in design, so flattering to a man’s look, would fade into obscurity in favor of the baseball cap.” Keith Lo Bue from Well Dressed Head

The nature of fashion and shifting trends have left the broad and voluminous cloth caps behind, and over the decades, the baseball cap has become the contemporary modern choice of headwear, for a majority of booth men and women. A development that Mr. Lo Bue obviously don’t appreciate. Moreover, he has got an excellent point about the stylish look of the period. We absolutely agree here at Wilgart, where we do love the bespoke and handcrafted styles. Where we celebrate diversity, uniqueness and history of caps!

The notably honest truth about the capmaking industry is that it’s been going downhill for booth quality and style ever since. Sizes have vanished, durability is at the bottom of the ocean, and people just go with it. Or most people does. But not Monsavais of California, who has been challenging the independent capmaking industry with success since 2014, and of whom I admire the fabulous styles and attention to production details and materials. These folks truly are keeping the craft of capmaking alive and true to tradition.

“All men of trades owned one, from the farmers to the Prince of Wales. Mostly made in wool and lined with silk. Today’s modern caps are nothing like they made in the 1920s and 1930s.” Monsavais, LA

Our own cut for the “One piece crown” is developed on a pattern I got from my master Herr Bullmann last year. He had been making the pattern long time ago, but did not have the much success with the style.

The pictures above are from the first prototypes, and are the first time Wilgart is cutting with scissors over that pretty shape. We are still working hard to complete the look and shape of the perfect one piece crown, in the way we think it should look. Developing the pattern for a new style is a process that usually takes several months, and we still need to make the hatblocks for each size, and find us a slightly larger brim than these forecasts. Stay put, the  ‘new old caps’ are under construction.

Meanwhile visit these two pioneers in the field of vintage cloth caps:

Speciale om Wilgart cap customization

Wilgart skriver i disse måneder speciale omkring customization af kasketter. Vi har testet en prototype i to butikker, og med ny viden fra vores brugere, samt interviews med butiksindehavere, bevæger projektet sig nu i en helt anden retning en forventet.

 

Læs om vores indsigter:

1. Det er en væsentlig indsigt fra min rolle som virksomhedsejer, at der er stor forskel på hvor meget rådgivning, den enkelte har brug for under designprocessen af en håndlavet kasket. Nogle ønsker blot at udskifte et enkelt element, f.eks. en rød skygge frem for en brun. Andre starter med at vurdere alle muligheder, eller lader sig inspirere undervejs.

 

2. Online køb giver høj usikkerhed omkring pasform, desuden afskærer onlinehandel taktile og gode visuelle oplevelser af kasketten. Et tab som selv jeg, ville have svært ved at acceptere, specielt hvis jeg selv skulle træffe valg omkring design. Derfor vil vi gå væk fra vores tidligere online værktøj, hvor designprocessen udelukkende foregår på nettet. (Se værktøj her www.wilgart.dk/customize-cap/)

Picture of page where Wilgart offers online customization of headwear

3. De fleste af Wilgarts kasketter nummereret. Wilgart giver nummer efter hvilket år kasketten er produceret i danmark, dvs. at første kasket der laves i januar får nummeret ét, derefter følger to, tre, o.s.v. Hver kasket er et eksklusivt unikum, og er inspireret af vin som også har en årgang, samt nummererede værker inden for bl.a. kunst. Det er vores vurdering at en made-to-measure cap er værdsat ikke mindst for dens unikke design, hvor kunden selv vælger stof og detaljer.

 

Målet med projektet er at forbedre oplevelsen at customize sin egen kasket. Tidligere troede vi at vores kunder selvstændigt ville håndtere design, viser det sig nu, at forløbet skal kunne tilpasse sig den enkeltes individuelle behov for support til f.eks. designbeslutninger og pasform. Hos Wilgart arbejder vi iterativt, og er allerede nu i gang med udformningen af et ny koncept, hvor man kan tilpasse hatten efter eget ønske, under kyndig vejledning af en kasketmager. Ligesom det ind til videre altid har været tilfældet i Wilgarts kasket værksted. Vi vil gøre kunderejsen mere attraktiv, og sørge for at customization bliver en god oplevelse for kunden.

 

Design processen

Til projektet benytter vi Double Diamond modellen kendt fra Design Thinking. Modellen viser hvordan divergente og konvergente faser er centralt for en designproces, desuden skelnes der i de to diamanter mellem hvad der er problemet/fænomenet, og hvad der skal være løsningen/resultatet.

The Double Diamond (Design Council, 2005)

Følg med i projektet på vores hjemmeside, og hold øje med hvordan Wilgart custom made headwear  kommer til at se ud i fremtiden.

Wilgart’s fantastic 3D drawings

The initial drafts of 3D caps is here. There is a lot more work to put into them, but eventually the goal is to create a sketch that enables you to mix fabrics and leather to fully customize the hat to your personal prefference. Wilgart want’s you to get inside the engineroom where new designs are created. But this is still a project under development, if you are interested in making it happen, please refer to the contact section.

This black figure below is showing how far we are with the project at current time.

[canvasio3D width=”370″ height=”370″ border=”1″ borderCol=”#F6F6F6″ dropShadow=”0″ backCol=”#FFFFFF” backImg=”…” mouse=”on” rollMode=”off” rollSpeedH=”0″ rollSpeedV=”0″ objPath=”http://wilgart.dk/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/kasket_v2.stl” objScale=”0.4″ objColor=”” lightSet=”7″ reflection=”off” refVal=”5″ objShadow=”off” floor=”off” floorHeight=”42″ lightRotate=”off” Help=”off”] [/canvasio3D]
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3D drawing with interchangable fabric in progress
Unfinished wilgart 3d drawing
3D drawing description sheet