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Portræt af Silas Skram og Tomas Chovan

Fra Bornholm til Berlin
Mødet med læremester Herr Bullmann
Kasketterne tager form i Danmark
Fra enkeltmandsvirksomhed til to
Made in Denmark

Tekst: Sigrid Thorgaard, DFD
Fotos: Nicoline Mou, DFD & Ian Adler, USA
Udgiver: Ternede Fortællinger, DFD Blog
Dato: 30. september 2019

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Ny butik og udstilling på Bornholm

Salg af caps i Soldalen (Fra Maj til slut August)
Foto: Daniel Rasmussen, 2019
Udstilling på Bornholms Center for Kunsthåndværk
Wilgart i morgen radio
Introduktion til hatte udstilling på Grønbechsgård
Foto: Daniel Rasmussen, 2019
Foto: Daniel Rasmussen, 2019

Hattemagere og Modister i København anno 2019

Gentrificering af Nørrebro tvinger hattemagerfabrik til at flytte

Hattemager Stig Andersen fra Nørrebro har set sig nødsaget til at flytte ud af de lokaler, som siden 1983 har været domicil for hattevirksomheden Andersen & Berner. Hans venlige fortællen om materialer og hatte metoder, har gjort det unikke hatteværksted til naturligt samlingspunkt for store og små aktører i branchen.

Stig Andersen fra Andersen & Berner. Foto: Kristian Holm

Hatte- & Fjerværkstedet på Det Kongelige Teater
Hatteværkstedet på Det kongelige teater, 2019
Hatteblokke på Hatte og Fjerværkstedet på Det Kongelige Teater, 2019

Modist Katrin Cecilia Jacobsen på Det Kongelige Teater

Radio program om Modist og Hattemager
Susanne Juul, Foto: Politikken
Ny Modist udlært
Frida Barfod, Foto: Katrine Estrup, 2019
Moderigtig hat og kasket i 2019

Blanche Fashionshow Copenhagen fashionweek, 2019 iklædt en houndstooth vævet buckethat

Vil du se mere dansk håndværk på catwalken?
Hatten og kasketten står stærkere end for 20 år siden
New Style from Wilgart. The Marlon Brando Cap
Hattemager får internationalt gennembrud på Kickstarter

Modist og Hattemager Mathilde Førster åbner nyt showroom

Mathilde Førster åbner nyt showroom i 2019

Kilder

Nye muskler og maskiner

Wilgart har siden 2013 været drevet som enkeltmandsvirksomhed. Vores start-up har haft til huse på én adresse og alt kommunikation og drift er gået igennem én person. Men dette er ved årets afslutning blot fortid, for her fordobles vores menneskelige og materielle ressourcer.

Mennesket først

Først og fremmest er vi meget glade for at introducere en ny partner: Tomas Chóvan.
Han er ferm med moderne teknologi som CNC og laserskæring, har en baggrund i økonomi og er desuden svært glad for håndværket i kasketmagerfaget. Jeg tror vi har en strålende fremtid foran os, og glæder mig til at dele udfordringen omkring ihværksætteri med Tomas.

 

 

Her i videoen ses Tomas arbejde med hans første opgave: Hatteblokke i Egetræ. Disse blokke har vi længe manglet i vores produktion, og glædes over Tomas’ engagement i dem. Næste opgave for ham bliver at designe og producere vores egen packaging løsning. En flot emballage til vores kasketter.

Bornholm, Bornholm, Bornholm

Desuden er vores nye kasket produktion endelig blevet indviet på Bornholm. Her finder man nye industri symaskiner, damp strygehjern, presse, båndkniv og laserskærer. Med finansiel støtte fra LAG-Bornholm (EU-støtte), har vi efter 1 års byggeperiode, tilført virksomheden nye muligheder inden for produktion og branding. Helt ærligt, hvem vil ikke gerne eje en kasket som er syet på Bornholm? Danmarks eneste kasket produktion er en realitet!

Godt håndværk

Min mester sagde en gang til mig: ”Silas se her: Dette er et produkt som alle forstår.” da han stod med endnu en Harris Tweed sixpence kasket netop strøget og klar til afsendelse. ”Ægte og flot håndværk, det sælger altså bare sig selv.” sagde han.

Efter 7 år som kasketmager og ihværksætter, må jeg desværre konstatere at nej. Der er intet i denne verden der sælger sig selv. Alle gode ting har en historie, en oprindelse og en hensigt med sin eksistens, og ja et håndværksmæssigt stabilt produkt er alenlang mere værd på disse tre parametre. Men…

  • Historien omkring produktet fortæller ikke sig selv.
  • Værdien af varen er ikke åbenlys for alle.
  • Og den nye ejer finder aldrig vej til kasketten uden en salgsindsats.

Want to become the second capmaker in Scandinavia?

I don’t know if the buzz about Wilgart looking for a working partner has hit the internet yet? But now we want to make it official: We are looking for applicants that eventually could become partner in the company.

Why capmaking is important right now?

The fact is that hatshops businesses are very old school, and capmaking has not been developed very thoroughly in the past decades. In fact quality and innovation decreased. It’s yet another story about how honor full craftsmanship got run over by mass-production and anonymous products.

An example of this can be seen in the decrease of sizes. Where the majority of caps today are made in one-size, where in fact peoples heads comes in 10-12 sizes, and have different shapes just like peoples feet. However, you would never see the shoe industry adopt a one-size shoe would you? That just does not make any sense. Nevertheless, that has been one of the results of mass-production mindset in the headwear industry.

 

Mission

In Wilgart we want to bring back identity and personality in headwear. We manufacture personalized headwear on specific needs, and in shops we create an authentic experience enabling customization in size, fit, and style.

To our retailers we offer the ability for them to pre-order caps on the behalf of their customers. Together with our customization concept we offer an entirely new shopping experience.

 

Knowledge

We consider knowledge to be one of our most valuable resources in the company. Since 2012 we have collected information about every aspect of capmaking, about our customer segments, about our place in the market ect. The accumulated knowledge has been written into different reports, as part of an educational pathway. First in Accessories Design, then Sustainable purchase within textiles, and latest a Master in Digital Communication at the IT-University of Copenhagen. This means that Wilgart has a lot of academic knowledge about our customers, business opportunities and strategic project planning.

 

Economy

Wilgart has sold more than 600 caps during the past couple of years, of which many where made-to-order. We are a unique company, on an amazing journey, and if you want to become part of this engine, please send me a resume, or meet me directly in my shop in Copenhagen.

We expect this years turnover to be around 400.000 DKK. Next year we want to produce and sell 600-800 pieces of headwear, and raise our turnover to 800.000 followed by continues growth. Last year we received a funding from EU to build our own small batch cap factory on Bornholm, which will ensure a higher volume of unique caps. If you put in sweat and tears to reach that goal, then we would like to offer you a share of the company.

Hatblocks and capblocks. tools for chraftsmanship
Stamp your own visitcard at the exhibition of Wilgart Headwear
Oilskin fabrics from U.K.

Today in Jægersborggade

This is where the shop and small capmaking workshop is today at Jægersborggade (2018)

Building new workshop on Bornholm

Here is a short video about the building of our new capmaking factory on Bornholm (2017)

Early Days of Wilgart

Here are one of the first videos, when the company was only a couple of months old (2013)

Fashion Show

Here is Wilgart Caps at a Fashionshow in Hotel D’angleterre. Copenhagen Fashion Week (2016)

New old style – The one piece crown

Recently Wilgart has been looking into very old time classics of caps. One of the styles that came to mind was the very broad cloth caps, worn by men in the 1910s through the 1930s. Amongst the styles popular at the time was the newsboy cap, baker cap and golf caps. One shape in particular caught attention, is the beautifully crafted one piece crown caps, that seems a very popular style in the early days.

With inspiration from talented craftsman people like Monsavais in California and The Well Dressed Head in Australia, we are now also in Denmark challenging ourselves with the novel art of capmaking in these long forgotten styles.

“It seems beyond my understanding that headwear so beautifull in design, so flattering to a man’s look, would fade into obscurity in favor of the baseball cap.” Keith Lo Bue from Well Dressed Head

The nature of fashion and shifting trends have left the broad and voluminous cloth caps behind, and over the decades, the baseball cap has become the contemporary modern choice of headwear, for a majority of booth men and women. A development that Mr. Lo Bue obviously don’t appreciate. Moreover, he has got an excellent point about the stylish look of the period. We absolutely agree here at Wilgart, where we do love the bespoke and handcrafted styles. Where we celebrate diversity, uniqueness and history of caps!

The notably honest truth about the capmaking industry is that it’s been going downhill for booth quality and style ever since. Sizes have vanished, durability is at the bottom of the ocean, and people just go with it. Or most people does. But not Monsavais of California, who has been challenging the independent capmaking industry with success since 2014, and of whom I admire the fabulous styles and attention to production details and materials. These folks truly are keeping the craft of capmaking alive and true to tradition.

“All men of trades owned one, from the farmers to the Prince of Wales. Mostly made in wool and lined with silk. Today’s modern caps are nothing like they made in the 1920s and 1930s.” Monsavais, LA

Our own cut for the “One piece crown” is developed on a pattern I got from my master Herr Bullmann last year. He had been making the pattern long time ago, but did not have the much success with the style.

The pictures above are from the first prototypes, and are the first time Wilgart is cutting with scissors over that pretty shape. We are still working hard to complete the look and shape of the perfect one piece crown, in the way we think it should look. Developing the pattern for a new style is a process that usually takes several months, and we still need to make the hatblocks for each size, and find us a slightly larger brim than these forecasts. Stay put, the  ‘new old caps’ are under construction.

Meanwhile visit these two pioneers in the field of vintage cloth caps:

Special designed headwear for artist

For quite some time, Wilgart headwear have been collaborating with Japanese dancing and performing artist Mori Kiochiro. Many have admired his inspiring moves and futuristic shows. Recently the biggest national television broadcaster of Japan filmed him for months, to create a documentary about his special dance style and extraordinary work. Others are The Royal Theather of Copenhagen, Tiësto, Jacob Elk, Olafur Eliason and many more. Below is the some example of Mori’s talent.

 

 

Who made the hat Mori Kiochiro is wearing in wix.com commercial?

Wilgart is making special caps that suit the needs for Moris various performances. Collaborating with talented artists like Mori Kiochiro is booth fun and inspiring for us. Headwear especially plays a central role to a person’s character and style. Which is why we always sit down and discuss what unique features that are required, for the next piece of headwear developed for a specific artist. One of the challenges with especially dance performance headwear is obviously that the headwear should sit tight, and not move during performances. Design of the brim and shape of the hat, also changes how the light, shadow and silhouette is acting on stage. These are amongst the topics when designed headwear translates from professional capmaker to professional artist.
Visit Mori Kiochiro website here.

 

Creative collaborations

Headwear design for performing artists is always an interesting case that Wilgart joyfully supports. Making more custom headwear for celebrities is amongst our goals for this year. Wilgart is allready continuously collaborating with various creative people, read about them in the new homepage section: People.

Opening new hatshop at Jægersborggade

Wilgart is opening our first independent Danish headwear shop, on one of the most exciting streets of Copenhagen. Jægersborggade, is a small street with old stunning buildings and a cosy vibe. Unlike any traditional shopping street, the store repertoire consist of entrepreneurs with strong concepts and of shop owners that embrace aesthetics and artisanship. Many of the stores offers visitors to see the production of the special items, typically made in the rear compartments of the small shops.

 

Eating

The street also houses some of the most exciting food offerings for instance the oatmeal bar, the handmade caramels and chocolate or the best instant made icecreams in town! Meals further include a Michelin starred organic restaurant, a vegan burger bar, and other restaurants serving laid-back quality food and wine from local farmers.

 

Shopping

Many of the shop owners have built their own fortune through innovation. Ex. with special products like nitrogen ice cream, coffee grown mushrooms, paper-thin ceramics, re-made jewelry, and soon handcrafted Danish headwear, all made in Denmark. Wilgart is very proud and excited about this new expansion of our small batch capmaking company, and looking forward to showing locals and foreigners how local headwear is created in our first headwear shop in Copenhagen. The workshop and cap making process will be accessible for all visitors, through the back room of the hat shop. Also bring your broken but beloved headpieces, we do offer repairs of caps at a reasonable price.

 

Grand Opening

Wilgart is opening the shop Saturday the 25th of November. Hope to see you there for a beer and a chat with other cap- and hatlovers.

Speciale om Wilgart cap customization

Wilgart skriver i disse måneder speciale omkring customization af kasketter. Vi har testet en prototype i to butikker, og med ny viden fra vores brugere, samt interviews med butiksindehavere, bevæger projektet sig nu i en helt anden retning en forventet.

 

Læs om vores indsigter:

1. Det er en væsentlig indsigt fra min rolle som virksomhedsejer, at der er stor forskel på hvor meget rådgivning, den enkelte har brug for under designprocessen af en håndlavet kasket. Nogle ønsker blot at udskifte et enkelt element, f.eks. en rød skygge frem for en brun. Andre starter med at vurdere alle muligheder, eller lader sig inspirere undervejs.

 

2. Online køb giver høj usikkerhed omkring pasform, desuden afskærer onlinehandel taktile og gode visuelle oplevelser af kasketten. Et tab som selv jeg, ville have svært ved at acceptere, specielt hvis jeg selv skulle træffe valg omkring design. Derfor vil vi gå væk fra vores tidligere online værktøj, hvor designprocessen udelukkende foregår på nettet. (Se værktøj her www.wilgart.dk/customize-cap/)

Picture of page where Wilgart offers online customization of headwear

3. De fleste af Wilgarts kasketter nummereret. Wilgart giver nummer efter hvilket år kasketten er produceret i danmark, dvs. at første kasket der laves i januar får nummeret ét, derefter følger to, tre, o.s.v. Hver kasket er et eksklusivt unikum, og er inspireret af vin som også har en årgang, samt nummererede værker inden for bl.a. kunst. Det er vores vurdering at en made-to-measure cap er værdsat ikke mindst for dens unikke design, hvor kunden selv vælger stof og detaljer.

 

Målet med projektet er at forbedre oplevelsen at customize sin egen kasket. Tidligere troede vi at vores kunder selvstændigt ville håndtere design, viser det sig nu, at forløbet skal kunne tilpasse sig den enkeltes individuelle behov for support til f.eks. designbeslutninger og pasform. Hos Wilgart arbejder vi iterativt, og er allerede nu i gang med udformningen af et ny koncept, hvor man kan tilpasse hatten efter eget ønske, under kyndig vejledning af en kasketmager. Ligesom det ind til videre altid har været tilfældet i Wilgarts kasket værksted. Vi vil gøre kunderejsen mere attraktiv, og sørge for at customization bliver en god oplevelse for kunden.

 

Design processen

Til projektet benytter vi Double Diamond modellen kendt fra Design Thinking. Modellen viser hvordan divergente og konvergente faser er centralt for en designproces, desuden skelnes der i de to diamanter mellem hvad der er problemet/fænomenet, og hvad der skal være løsningen/resultatet.

The Double Diamond (Design Council, 2005)

Følg med i projektet på vores hjemmeside, og hold øje med hvordan Wilgart custom made headwear  kommer til at se ud i fremtiden.

Wilgart receives project funding

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